The Undiscovered Jaipur

There is a Jaipur that the global tourist is aware of. A Pink City that’s been brought to life by the famous Palace Hotels and Royal Retreats run by world renowned hospitality chains. Be it the Rambagh Palace (the former private residence of Maharani Gayatri Devi), or the Jai Mahal Palace (the estate that served as home to the Jaipur Head of State during the British Raj).

However, like most tourist destinations the world over, there lurks an untarnished, undiscovered, and incredibly charming Jaipur. One that has not been exposed by most tourist guides, unchronicled by television magazine shows. Hidden yet alive, removed yet at its core – a slew of privately owned and run boutique hotels that present two big advantages over the larger establishment – a personal touch, and a sense of bespoke luxury, not violated by mass produced opulence. This is the story of 4 such hidden gems, that make up, an Undiscovered Jaipur

Jas Vilas – The Elegant Residence

Jas Vilas is one of those ‘non-hotel’ hotels, that really lives up to its claim of being an elegant residence. This half-century old mansion has been beautifully & painstakingly restored by the owner-managers, and offers a most charming peak into old world Rajasthan, with all the modern-day trappings, at less than modest prices! Sounds too good to be true? Well, it is absolutely true. And from the moment you step foot inside the regal gates of this white stately beauty, you begin to understand why..

Jas Vilas’s intimacy is apparent. A boutique hotel with as few as 8 rooms! Yes, just eight rooms. Its the ideal pad to plan your clandestine weekend away (from nagging mums-in-law), or for a group of friends to book out the entire place. Imagine, in the dead of Rajasthani winter, laying in retro-finished guest rooms, it is just your friends and you. Nobody else! Be it cards, pictionary, or just catching up with boarding school pals – this can very easily become unbridled luxury – the kind only a small boutique residence like Jas Vilas can offer. You may be willing and able to splurge thousands more at 5 star havelis, but the privacy and fulfillment the Jas Vilas will provide you, all your money won’t buy!

The hotel has a sparkling blue swimming pool with traditional Rajasthani tiling on its floor. What’s even better, the rest of the ‘home’ is built around the pool, making it the focal point of the hotel. Once again, the refreshing swim one can enjoy in the scorching Jaipur summer in this pool, can not possibly be compared with those at more expensive hotels. There may not be a butler holding out a towel here, but why would you need one when you feel like you are swimming at home!

The rooms, all eight of them, are done up in traditional Rajasthani Royal splendor. The furniture, the art work, even little fountains along the corner of your Master Suit (yes, there are fountains inside the rooms); hark back to an era that is not only bygone, but near impossible to enjoy in these modern times. The tingling sensation the sound of water solicits, the personalized service of the courteous staff who feel like they’ve been yours’ since eternity; the entire aura that Jas Vilas creates is surreal.

To know more about the treasures that await you at the Jas Vilas, log onto www.jasvilas.com. And the next time you plan on visiting the Pink City, ditch the 5 Star Club Card and pay the good folks at Jas Vilas a visit. I promise, you won’t want to leave!

Devi Niketan – Dreams are Made of These

Jaipur is one of the most preferred cities to host the now-popular “Destination Wedding”. Scores of high-rollers from the farthest corners of the world flock to the Pink City to orchestrate their marital extravaganzas. When money is a non-issue, the world is their oyster. So what happens to us lesser mortals? Our dreams are epics in vivid technicolor, but our wallets are pint sized!

That’s exactly where this next hidden gem of Jaipur comes in. Hotel Devi Niketan is a restored haveli smack in the center of the new city. And it is the real deal. Magnificently restored and with the upkeep of an army regiment (thanks to its ex armed forces owner-manager), Devi Niketan presents a backdrop that only dreams are made of. Except of course, its real. I tell you from personal experience, if you want to hold a wedding in Jaipur without taking out a second mortgage – the buck literally stops at the Devi Niketan!

Consider this. 14 unique and stately rooms in traditional Rajasthani décor (enough for the main wedding party to be accommodated in true blue style). 4000 square yards of gardens and grounds – more than ample space to put up the wildest and most creative marriage functions. And if that’s not enough, press your imagination a bit. In the foreground the groom arrives in a Vintage horse-drawn carriage to the petal-showers of ladies in their ‘bandhej lehengas’. In the background stands tall and resplendent, the illuminated facade of the Devi Niketan Haveli! Its the stuff of Raja-Maharajas – only at Devi Niketan, it could just as well be you (the city slicker Investment Banker from Mumbai or Manhattan), searching for that slice of history & tradition. Well I can tell you, if you get married at the Devi Niketan, you would have etched its memory for time immemorial; and want to come back for your anniversary to the same place again!

Of course, none of this is to say that Devi Niketan is not an option for the regular traveler. It is just as splendid an alternative. The sheer space will delight you (especially after you’ve led a restricted existence couped up in your suburban 500 square feet). As you bask along the swimming pool out back, tunes of traditional Rajasthani Ravan-Hatta wafting through the air, you will be disconnected from the big bad and manic metro, transported to a world that was, a pace that is noticeable, a luxury that is invaluable.

And as with all these small Rajasthani boutique hotels; as you check out, the bill might just shock you  into delaying your departure – indefinitely! I sincerely suggest that you log onto http://www.deviniketan.com/devi_niketan.htm and make your date with the old-world as soon as possible.

Barawara Kothi – Come Home To Royalty!

Like me, if you share more than a passing interest in the royal families of old-India, chances are that your thirst remains largely unquenched. After all, in order to live the life of a Maharaja – well you’d either have to be vulgarly rich, or be very close to an ex-royal (which essentially means you’ll have to be vulgarly rich)!

If you read this though, you’ll know you won’t have to be either of the aforementioned! Enter Barwara Kothi. Situated in posh Civil Lines, with no less than Governor House to boast as a neighbor, is the Barwara Kothi. Don’t pay attention, and you are bound to miss its innocuous entrance. Don’t let the approach fool you though, for what lies immediately inside is the breathtaking personal villa of the royal family of Barwara!

That this early 20th Century property is inspired by Lutyens Delhi is clear to see. You arrive at the main porch and step inside. A spacious area greets you. There are rooms lined along this space, but what you notice is the staircase leading to the first floor. Your royal sojourn has begun! Dotting the walls along the stairwell are treasured (and perhaps invaluable) photographs of the royal family. Steeped in history, radiating the awesome power of the royal past, these photographs might just make you forget you are in a boutique hotel as they scream museum. Fact is, you are standing in the personal residence of the Barwara Royal Family. And where else would a family hang their pictures, except in their own home!

‘Under the Influence’ (of the most intoxicating overdose of royalty), you will stumble up to the first level. You arrive at an enchanting space that serves as the ‘dining area’ of the home-hotel. Be prepared for your jaw to drop. Occupying this dining space are teak-wood round tables. But the piece de resistance has to be the dining chairs. They are genuine antiques and made of solid silver! Yes, silver!! feeling like a Maharaja are we?

Throughout the property the air of royal heritage is omnipresent. The same air permeates the large guest rooms, each unique and different from the other, but all still reminiscent of a glorious history. Memorabilia belonging to the royal family, pictures of legendary polo matches & players, and an unending display of antiques lines the premises. As you awaken from your restful sleep, you will be able to sit in the ‘enclosed’ balcony along the dining room, sipping your favorite Earl Grey, and your vision will fix upon the lush green lawns that beckon you. After a healthy and filling home-made breakfast, you will accept your calling and make your way to the wonderfully inviting benches in the garden, and bask with your thoughts the rest of the day.

Few hotels can create the elegance of Barwara Kothi. Perhaps it is because in the kothi’s case, elegance is innate. Its not an acquired attribute. A larger hotel can at best provide retro-fitted heritage. At the Barwara Kothi, heritage is a given. You are truly in the midst of royalty. And when that happens, it most natural consequence is that you will yourself, feel like a royal.

So the next time you hunger for a trip down History, check out the Barwara Kothi at www.barwarakothi.com. If nothing else, your stay there will leave you with a little more polish!

Tread The Untrodden

Off late, India has emerged an extremely popular tourist destination. Unfortunately, the real heritage and culture of this great country, is somewhat overwhelmed by the more well established hotels & resorts, that are convenient to identify, and sway us by their lofty promises. The real gems rest in uncharted parts. It is our obligation to seek them out. And just as is the case with Jaipur, through the length & breadth of this fascinating nation, for the persistent traveler, await hidden and surreal experiences!

[Kartik Bajoria, a regular contributor, runs his own creative agency called BOLD & is also involved in Films & Music as a force of habit!]

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