Your Secret Weekend Getaway!

 

Nestled on a quaint hill top off the Mumbai-Pune road, is the charming pedestrian hill station of Matheran.  It is easily accessible, close to Mumbai, and serves as an ideal weekend getaway for many a worn out Mumbaikar, looking for a little piece of tranquility. The only hill station in the country, that does not permit vehicles inside it since the Raj times, it boasts this vital advantage of being an unpolluted, untouched, untarnished slice of peaceful paradise; the ideal setting to get away, ‘far from the madding crowd’.

Like most hill stations, Matheran serves up its usual share of delights. There is the mall with cute little novelty shops, scores of tiny eating places that cook up quite a storm, and an unending array of guest houses and hotels, promising great views and sit-out balconies, from where one can soak in the Sahyadri hills. Being a pedestrian hill station, there is the added attraction of the Toy Train, hand-drawn rickshaws, and local Horses; either or all of which, one can sample during one’s sight-seeing sojourns.

Most people however, are familiar with Matheran. Droves have been visiting this quaint hilly hideaway for decades now. What one is not necessarily aware of, is a relatively undiscovered ‘jewel’ that basks in the cocoon of the Sahyadri range. Ironically, it is perhaps the oldest native home of Matheran. Still, it remains almost completely hidden from the everyday tourist’s view, sleepy, charming, and on the road less taken. This secret hideout is The Verandah In The Forest. At the edge of Matheran, the nearly obscure 19th century heritage bungalow, that is owned and run by the Neemrana Group of Hotels.

 

 

 

 

 

I was lucky to have found this place online, so my first visit to Matheran took me straight to the Verandah. And for each of you that’s not been to Matheran yet, I could hardly urge you more strongly, to book your stay here, rather than at any other hotel.

Journey To Tranquility

Park your car at the public parking grounds at the foot of Matheran. It is perfectly safe. (in fact, I overstayed my visit and had to call in from the hotel, asking the parking to extend my space by an additional night, and returned to find my car just fine).  Begin the ascent into Matheran. Especially for first-timers, I strongly recommend doing this on horse-back. It might take a few moments to get used to, but there is really no other way to relish the lush greenery and landscape. Besides, you’ll fully appreciate my insistence on this mode of travel, only upon arrival at the Verandah (so that feeling I leave to you to experience). A quick aside – bargain hard. The horse wranglers tend to over-price their services, especially if you seem eager!

As you weave your way through the ‘kaccha rasta’, you notice lots of people like yourself. Tourists that are making their way into Matheran, to enjoy a couple of days of anonymity. You hit the mall and alas! You think to yourself – ‘this place is nearly as crowded as Mumbai’!

Don’t panic just yet. As the other tourists step into one or the other hotel along or just after the mall, the crowd thins. Your journey continues. Soon you have left the mall area behind, along with the overwhelming sense of ‘this is a big mistake’! Now there is just the odd tourist either on foot, or on horse-back, lazily meandering his/her way through the forest, admiring the flora & fauna, as you are.

You soon realize, that after traveling for a little over an hour, you are now almost totally alone! And just before your paranoia of having been abducted by the crooked horse-wrangler gets the better of you, the sign appears – Barr House (the original name of the Verandah, still used by Matheran locals), 1 km. A steep downhill patch, you cross a drinks stand, and arrive at a stately mansion. A bungalow, right out of a film set. A living, breathing, tangible manifestation of the Raj times. Ladies and gentlemen, you are at the Verandah! Your fatigue vanishes as you take in the sights and smells of the heritage bungalow. There it stands right in front of you, resplendent in all its historical glory! You alight your horse (using the raised platform just outside the main gate), and go inside.

The Warm Embrace of a Bygone Era

Unless you have an obscenely rich uncle, or, are inheriting the family ‘haveli’ back in the village, I promise you, you would not have experienced anything like the Verandah. An unending open corridor greets you upon your arrival. Along it sits a genuine antique hand-drawn rickshaw. Further on, you notice it extends into a huge common balcony. Few, with a double stress of few; people sit and drink their beers. A buffet lunch is being set up. A simple register is produced and you check in. Pleasantries exchanged, you are ushered to your room. You remain transfixed. Amazed at the beauty of this heritage property, and the thick jungle that envelops it. As you walk through the bungalow, you pass the magnificent lounge area (complete with rare books, scrabble and carrom boards neatly stowed to a side). Next, the formal dining room, with its traditional long table, conjures images of Princes enjoying their ‘shikar’ for supper. Its all rather surreal. And just as you think your senses are acclimatizing to the ‘old world’, your room door is opened, and you are confronted with a classic, genuine four poster bed, in a room that is double the size of your suburban apartment! In your trans-like state, you thank the attendant and shut the door behind you.

I suggest you sit. On the four-poster bed, on the velvet (yes, velvet) chaise lounge, or at the antique study table. But do sit, for this is not your world. You need to take it in, slowly.

You decide to freshen up and get some lunch. As you grab your change and enter the bathroom, you might need to sit again! Most likely, your bathroom is split in two sections. One houses a classic twin-basin washroom, and the other has the toilet and a bare-basic, but utterly 19th century shower stall. Depending on your personality, you might feel blessed to be here, or you may start to curse your life back in the city. Try and stick with the former emotion.

You freshen up, change and arrive back at the balcony for lunch.

Europe On Your Plate

The Verandah has a simple system for dining. You need to inform the staff a little bit in advance, and they will count you in for their Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner accordingly. And unless you are desperate to hit the mall and sample local cuisine, or have an aversion to European food; you’d be wise to stay put.

Lunch is basic. Basic not in food quality or taste, but in variety. It is generally Indian fare, a Meat/Poultry preparation (like Chicken curry or Mutton Stew) for non-vegetarians, and Paneer for vegetarians. Along with the main-course, there is normally a ‘daal’, a dry vegetable, rotis, rice, yogurt and salad. The property does not serve alcohol, save for beer and wine. But its good, wholesome and very tasty food.

Similarly, breakfast is not elaborate, but plentiful. Its a selection of fresh cold cuts, made-to-order eggs, one vegetarian main course (which could be chili cheese toast or the like), lots of milk, juices, breads and cereal. And for those with a sweet-tooth, an enviable selection of Jams & preserves! The perfect healthy and filling breakfast, before a day full of horse-back travel.

Its dinner though, that is really the Verandah’s culinary piece de resistance. I was pleasantly surprised, shocked even, when I asked after the supper menu and was informed the following. There would be a set menu comprising Soup (mine was French Onion), followed by an appetizer of seasoned breads and Salad (Beetroot in my case), the main-course which would be a big plate with 3 portions (Spaghetti, a Quiche and a Roast Chicken), topped off with the most yummy crèmebrulee for dessert!

The food is just spectacular. The attention to detail is superb, the flavors subtle but satisfying, and the portions very generous. All this for rupees 500 including taxes.

And that’s not even the best part. One can have dinner served at various venues within the Verandah. So depending on your mood, you could enjoy a quiet, intimate, romantic supper at a secluded table in the balcony; in the company of your better half. Or, you can participate in the group revelry at the main dining table, and eat along with the other guests of the hotel.

             

Wi Fi, No Thank You!

There is lots to do in Matheran. But the Verandah does not help in this situation. When they say ‘In The Forest’, they mean it quite literally. There are no phones in the guest rooms. There are no TV’s in the guest rooms. There is little or no cell phone reception at the Verandah. There are no computers or internet connectivity either! So if you are the kind of person that needs to be ‘in-touch’ (for personal or professional reasons), steer clear of this place.

On the other hand, if you are getting away, to really get away – visit the Verandah, and DON’T GET OUT.

You will awaken to the sound of chirping birds on the trees that line the room windows (not to the cacophony of the traffic below your apartment building). You will sip your morning tea right outside your bedroom, as the sun comes up and kisses the valley (not try and drink it in the auto-rickshaw en route to the station for work, spilling and smelling all the way). You will then be able to laze the entire day on the numerous hammocks that line the garden at the foot of the bungalow, or climb up onto the Machaan and read that enticing novel (that you’ve had no time to indulge in). You will be able to walk to the nearby Charlotte lake and welcome dusk as it settles into the calm waters (not miss sunset couped up in your artificially cooled and disconnected office cabin).

The earthy smell of the forest, the heady freshness of pure air, the cathartic sounds of unbridled nature – a complete and total rejuvenation (that too without visiting some vulgarly priced big-city wellness spa).

     

Yes, Less Is More

Its like when you are traveling by boat. If you have 2 people with oars, you will travel quicker, reach faster. But if you have just the one oar, you will move slower, and have more time to enjoy the scenery. Its the same with the Verandah. There is little by way of amenities and modern conveniences. But therein lies true luxury. The luxury of time. The luxury of stillness. The luxury of surrendering to the invaluable small niceties of nature and of life.

Plan Your Getaway

To better plan your trip to the Verandah, visit the website at www.neemranahotels.com. You will get important information about ongoing rates, seasonal/weather updates, driving directions and access to bookings/reservations. Alternatively, you could use the more popular travel portals such as www.makemytrip.com or www.yatra.com

I eagerly await your impressions of the Verandah. I know I will return to it soon. To read, write, and just do nothing. Far far away, from the madding crowd!

[Kartik Bajoria, a regular contributor, runs his own creative agency called BOLD & is also involved in Films & Music as a force of habit!]

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