Mughlai Mania In The Heart Of Mumbai!

That Mumbai has an all-encompassing spirit, welcoming people from the farthest corners into its gracious embrace, is a well known fact. There is however one thing.. one craving.. one yearning that makes many North Indians like myself, pine for our hometowns.. and that’s good old North Indian Food.

To my sheer delight, and after having made do for years with mughlai food that was at best ‘wannabe’ (what with healthy influences from sweet Gujarathi food etc); I was pleasantly surprised – shocked even, on a recent visit to a certain restaurant in Mumbai. One that I am delighted to share with you. One that will satiate the staunchest of North Indian palates!

The days of compromised North Indian fare are truly behind us. This one’s for all of us Northis of Mumbai. I proudly present – Masala Mantar.

Tucked into a corner close to the main Lokhandwala Market in Andheri West, is the somewhat confusing (at first glance), kitschy entrance of Masala Mantar. One doesn’t quite know what to expect, but the colorful branding rouses one’s curiosity. Upon entering, the long cues of waiting patrons furthers one’s anticipation – and somewhat allays fears of a seemingly hasty ‘place looks cool, must try’ decision.

Climb the unusually appointed staircase to the first level and you arrive at the main restaurant. The immense size of the place is an instant & most pleasant surprise. Spaciousness quickly reveals a funky, hip, and uniquely decked out surrounding that can best be described as Mediterranean Mood meets Rural Chic! Amidst the gazillion quirky blue hanging lamps are large blow-ups of photos from our rural hinterland. The place is further enlivened by strikingly unusual tables that have mirror tops and actual Indian spices beneath them. The meal has scarcely begun, but the visual feast is surely on in full swing.

The courteous, if somewhat over-enthusiastic staff do well to seat patrons quickly (this restaurant does not accept reservations as a policy – perhaps it’s the only strange feature). Menus, both food & beverage are brought instantly. Examination of these menus delights, surprises and soothes the starved North Indian. To a hungry and food-bereft Northi, deciding on the meal can itself be a titillating, if slightly frustrating experience (too many options, and one wants to order the entire menu!).

Now for the real treat! Of the elaborate & versatile menu, stay true to your proud North Indian inner voice, and go with items like Achari Paneer Tikka (that will bring back memories of a childhood spent on Lajapat Nagar Chaat staple diet), Murgh Tangri Kabab (that will do Pandara Road food-fans proud), and Murg Kaali Mirir Kabab (who’s peppery taste will tantalize and seduce your taste buds). After these heavenly starters have performed their medley of song-and-dance in the mouth, you will be raring to dive into main course! Daal Makhani – that timeless classic which is sadly and often-times lost on the average Mumbaikar – is a MUST, MUST order. Ideally complimenting the perfectly spiced lentils is a portion of Meat Saghwala.

For vegetarians, the Palak or Methi Paneer instead of the meat/poultry dish, yields the same interplay of flavors, that the Meat Saghwala provides with the Daal. No sweetness in the food – just in one’s heart. As one powers through the meal, aided by the awesomeness of a genuine Kulcha OR Laccha Paratha – the talking dies down, the food becomes the singular focus, the lips moisten, the mouth works faster than ever, and the heart swells. With joy, nostalgia, deja vu, and an unparalleled feeling of fulfillment! The senses have been on a roller coaster ride. The kind of ride that was once familiar, yet presenting a novelty lost in recent times. One has to check oneself – for one can easily get lost. Lost in this magical food that can quite easily propel one to overeat, over-indulge; such is its lure.

After this epic culinary journey, one arrives at only a singular conclusion. Yes, Masala Mantar has a well stocked Bar that churns out some interesting cocktails. Yes, Masala Mantar also offers desserts that are the usual suspects (like Gulab Jamun, Kheer & Seasonal Halwa) all done reasonably well too. Yes, Masala Mantar is a charming eatery where service is personal & efficient. Without a shred of doubt though, the best of Masala Mantar’s bests – is the food. The undisputed ‘hero’ of their show. The king of Masala Mantar’s ring. The restaurant’s reason for being – its very Soul.

I must add here, that the place works really well for a quick power-lunch too, or for the odd evening where you may not feel like going through a full-length all course meal. Masala Mantar serves up its specialties in stand-alone & divine small packages as well!! Go for the Rajma Biryani. The restaurant’s peculiar but scrumptious take on Rajma-Chawal – where like a magic potion, the two come pre-mixed, Biryani style.

Nehru didn’t discover India in one day. In some strange way, even Masala Mantar is a process of discovery. Each visit reveals new dimensions, new experiences. So from this moment on – don’t bother making do with sweet or unauthentic cuisine, don’t head to those prohibitively priced 5 star Indian restaurants, and don’t bother making reservations either. Stay hungry the rest of the day, blindfold yourself, and head straight to Masala Mantar. There will always be a table, and sinful food on it, waiting for you! And if you are lucky to be in the Andheri vicinity, just call, and they will ‘bring home the magic’.

[Kartik Bajoria, a regular contributor, runs his own creative agency called BOLD & is also involved in Films & Music as a force of habit!]

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