Seafood Mania In Suburban Mumbai!!

Butter garlic pepper Crab & Lobster, Prawn Gassi & Appam, Squid Koliwada…. sounds mouthwatering? It sure is. There is a small problem though. Seafood like this is often very expensive. For a lot of us therefore, it becomes a ’special occasion’ indulgence. NOT ANY MORE!! With the recently refurbished Mahesh Lunch Home in Juhu, seafood lovers of Mumbai, and those visiting the bustling metropolis, can revel and rejoice in superlative delights from the ocean, and stay afloat even when the cheque arrives! Read on to find out more…

Better Than The Original!

The standard accusation for restaurants that are originally ‘town’ creations (read South Bombay for those unfamiliar) has been that their suburban counterparts don’t quite live up to the originals’ standards. When it comes to Mahesh Lunch Home though, all that has changed. I dare say, in its revamped form, its even better than its parent Fort branch.

Inside Story

Those who chanced on the Mahesh in Juhu before the renovations will instantly recall the cheesy interior. For a place dishing out pretty good seafood, it had to have had the most literal expression of its culinary theme in its aesthetics. With quasi fish-nets hanging from the ceiling, catching within it ’stuffed toys’ of orange lobsters & random fish strewn across its length; the space left much to be desired. The food however distracted one’s attention from the ‘inspired’ interiors for the most part. Now, no such problems. With the resurrected Mahesh, out goes cheesy 80’s décor, and in comes state-of-the-art lounge-like subdued atmosphere. You’d almost mistake this for a strictly ‘after-hours’ drinks place. And though Mahesh does have a liberally stocked bar, it is far from being the main-stay. I am happy to report that the hero of the Mahesh experience, is still, and now more than ever, the food. The big difference, now you eat in surroundings that are more in keeping with the times. No longer will you feel stuck in a time warp. Its thoroughly modern, mood-lit (if a tad dark), and intimate!

No Better Way To Start (But Go Easy)

Start with the classic Prawns Koliwada. This is the perfect accompaniment with drinks. Crisp on the outside, tender on the inside, and sprinkled with that dash of lemon – it really becomes a hit with whatever kind of drink you are having – alcoholic or non-alcoholic!! Though the appetizer menu is exhaustive (tikkas, soups et all), to avoid injustice to the main-course, I’d suggest checking your greed at the outset and restricting your starter to the Koliwada only. It’ll fill you up just enough so you are not over-stuffed right at the beginning, at the same time, titillate your taste buds plenty to make you restless for what’s to come!

First Main Course…

You’re through with your starter and longing for some more serious ‘meats’. Perfect time to call for the fresh selection of Lobsters & Crabs. I strongly recommend the Lobster of the two. And to further tease your senses, ask for the steward to bring you a couple to your table raw/live!! Choose a big size and order it with butter, garlic & pepper.

Two important points to note here. Traditionally at our restaurants, the main meal is brought all together. But to really give this divine lobster its deserved due, you ought to focus on it singularly. My first tip therefore is DON’T ORDER THE REST OF YOUR MEAL YET. CALL JUST FOR THE LOBSTER. Not only is the lobster preparation at Mahesh heavenly, it is also pretty big. So to savor it in its entirety, my second tip is DON’T GO TO MAHESH AND ORDER LOBSTER BY YOURSELF. Being among a group of friends will make this meal much more enjoyable!

Back to the eating then. The lobster arrives in all its delicious glory. As you dig into it, you realize it is perfectly cooked, beautifully seasoned, and tender the way you can’t describe! You don’t even need a fork or knife to negotiate it. Its just there, in front of you, begging to be devoured! And that’s exactly what you must do. Pay attention, make eye contact, and go for the kill! The soft meat plays a heart-stopping medley with the flavorful marination. The deft tones of garlic, enveloped in the rich goodness of butter, topped off with the cheeky note of pepper; its mind-boggling. The experience wreaks the sweetest havoc inside of you. Yummy, tantalizing, decadent, the superlatives fall grossly short. Its so, sooo good!!

2nd Main Course…

So you’ve just been to heaven and back. You need to calm down. The perfect antidote to that heady culinary quickie is…. more food of course. Now is the time to complete the main course by ordering the 2nd half of the split-meal. Yes, I know you must think that its silly to have to wait. But trust me when I say this, the wait is well worth it. Not only does it give you time to really savour the long-lasting after-taste of your ingested lobster, but also a chance to have a mid-meal drink and clear your palette so you can once again, fully appreciate your next set of dishes.

Ask for a Chicken OR Prawn Gassi. Along with that, ask for 2 Appams. Then kick back and count your blessings; for few things in life are as wholly satisfying as this meal. By the time you’re done thanking God, your remaining meal would have arrived.

We’ve all had Gassi at the choicest of restaurants. In our perception, Gassi is that wonderful coco-nutty based gravy with the added charm of our choice of meat/poultry. It is however, at most places, a thickish gravy at best. What sets apart the Mahesh Gassi is its viscosity. The Gassi is thick. Its only a shade above being ‘achari’. The Gassi gravy wraps itself inextricably to the prawn/chicken so you can’t really separate the two. And that’s what wins it its truly unique distinction. Unlike other places, when you plough into the dish with your steaming fresh appam, the piece of prawn that you break off does not leave behind the gravy. Its already inside the meat, and all around it. So with each bite, you get a proper taste of the entire dish. The juicy meat, as well as the mild but extremely engrossing masalas of the gravy! With each bite, you want more. Each bite is an appetizer in itself. Each bite, a bundle of flavorful joy! Its the perfect end to your split main-course!

Desert The Dessert!!

Mahesh has your standard dessert offerings. Gulab Jamun, Ras Malai, Halwa and others. But really, after that ‘fit for a king’ meal, you owe it to yourself, not to contaminate it with anything further. At least not for a while. My sincere advice, ditch the dessert. Let your mind and senses stay with the fading madness of your seafood bonanza. Its been such a delicious meal, flirt with it a little bit longer. And if you are really missing the sweetness, call for the cheque. I promise you, your meal would not have cost you more than 600 rupees per person!! A deal that can’t possibly be surpassed in sweetness! What do you reckon?

[Kartik Bajoria, a regular contributor, runs his own creative agency called BOLD & is also involved in Films & Music as a force of habit!]

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